ENGINE/TRANSMISSION REMOVALSimplified engine/transmission removal can be attained WITHOUT using a lifting block and tackle using the minimum of tools and equipment:
1. Disconnect battery.
Disconnect battery.2. Remove engine sump guard.
Remove engine sump guard.3. Drain engine oil and water.
Drain engine oil and water.4. Remove R/H front wheel and support - place an axle stand under frame beneath front suspension unit.
Remove R/H front wheel and support - place an axle stand under frame beneath front suspension unit.5. Fit a 1" block between upper arm and rubber. This allows easy removal of the swivel hub.
Fit a 1" block between upper arm and rubber. This allows easy removal of the swivel hub.6. Remove brake caliper and hang it up on an S-hook under mudguard.
Remove brake caliper and hang it up on an S-hook under mudguard.7. Remove 2 bolts to the steering arm and fold back out of the way (MKII). Disconnect tie rod on Mk l.
Remove 2 bolts to the steering arm and fold back out of the way (MKII). Disconnect tie rod on Mk l.8. Remove nut to lower ball joint and use two hammers, simultaneously striking side on to release taper. A hydraulic jack placed under tension between upper and lower arms will help to release.
Remove nut to lower ball joint and use two hammers, simultaneously striking side on to release taper. A hydraulic jack placed under tension between upper and lower arms will help to release.9. Remove stabiliser bar and gusset plate to front of vehicle.
Remove stabiliser bar and gusset plate to front of vehicle.10.Disconnect universal joint.
Disconnect universal joint.11.Remove upper ball joint nut, strike with two hammers simultaneously.
Remove upper ball joint nut, strike with two hammers simultaneously. Assembly will fall under it's own weight.
12.Withdraw hub/shaft assembly.
Withdraw hub/shaft assembly.13.Repeat steps 4 to 12 on the L/H side.
Repeat steps 4 to 12 on the L/H side.14.Remove exhaust clamps and fittings throughout and remove complete exhaust system in situ.
Remove exhaust clamps and fittings throughout and remove complete exhaust system in situ.15.Remove gear lever inside car and stuff some clean rag into the hole to prevent dirt entering.
Remove gear lever inside car and stuff some clean rag into the hole to prevent dirt entering.16.Loosen the three nuts to the gear-change assembly.
Loosen the three nuts to the gear-change assembly. Remove the front nut but leave the rear two nuts on at least a couple of threads.
17.Disconnect cables, hoses, etc. to carburettor, speedometer, heater, radiator, manifold and fuel pump.
Disconnect cables, hoses, etc. to carburettor, speedometer, heater, radiator, manifold and fuel pump.18.Remove clutch slave cylinder leaving hydraulic pipe attached, carburettor, exhaust manifold completely, solenoid, and all electrical leads to starter motor, coil, distributor, alternator, and temperature unit, (identifying each with masking tape or similar).
Remove clutch slave cylinder leaving hydraulic pipe attached, carburettor, exhaust manifold completely, solenoid, and all electrical leads to starter motor, coil, distributor, alternator, and temperature unit, (identifying each with masking tape or similar).19.Remove distributor cap.
Remove distributor cap.20.Place two 3"x 2" timber battens underneath engine.
Place two 3"x 2" timber battens underneath engine.21.Use two or three jacks in conjunction with the Austin jack, lower car to floor in easy stages.
Use two or three jacks in conjunction with the Austin jack, lower car to floor in easy stages. NEVER use two Austin jacks together, as the car will fall sideways.
22.Release the two nuts to gear-change inside car and lower assembly to floor.
Release the two nuts to gear-change inside car and lower assembly to floor.23.Remove bolts to engine mounting channel and remove the two rear engine mounts.
Remove bolts to engine mounting channel and remove the two rear engine mounts.24.Remove L/H side exhaust engine mount.
Remove L/H side exhaust engine mount.25.Remove R/H side alternator engine mount.
Remove R/H side alternator engine mount.26.Raise the car in easy stages, sufficiently to clear motor and then pull/slide complete motor/transmission assembly forward.
Raise the car in easy stages, sufficiently to clear motor and then pull/slide complete motor/transmission assembly forward. Using this method, the assembly can be removed from the car in two to three hours. An added advantage is the motor can be easily test run before fitting to the car, with the oil and cooling systems filled.
ENGINE VENTILATIONThe correct operation of the ventilation assembly near the carburettor on manifold is essential to prevent crankcase pressure build up and oil leaks.
Clean thoroughly and fit a new diaphragm (as used in the four-cylinder Landrover).
If you use a sealed cap or seal the old vent hole under side filler cap with a self-tapping screw, the engine will have a slight internal vacuum. The engine ventilates all right and there is absolutely no oil leaks.
This method has been tested on at least ten cars over a period of five years.
SUSPENSIONThe 1800 Hydrolastic suspension can combine exceptional ride and handling with reliability if these points are adhered to:
1.Check displacer housings regularly for signs of fluid leaks especially if one side is lower.
Check displacer housings regularly for signs of fluid leaks especially if one side is lower. Early detection of a leak will lessen the chance of displacer failure on the road.
2.If front of car does not have correct ride height at recommended pressure, de-pressurise the suspension (a fitting can be made up from a tyre inflator connector), retaining the fluid. Remove the lower bolt from the alloy housing and the two small top bolts. IF the two middle studs are removed by fitting locknuts over the 'niloc' nuts, THEN nothing else need be removed, the housing will pivot away sufficiently to allow displacer removal.
If front of car does not have correct ride height at recommended pressure, de-pressurise the suspension (a fitting can be made up from a tyre inflator connector), retaining the fluid. Remove the lower bolt from the alloy housing and the two small top bolts. IF the two middle studs are removed by fitting locknuts over the 'niloc' nuts, THEN nothing else need be removed, the housing will pivot away sufficiently to allow displacer removal.If your problem is simply low ride height, THEN fit about three or four large washers (to approx .25" thickness) where the pivot ball pin fits into the displacer, refitting the ball end carefully with new grease. Fit these washers to front displacer pins only. When replacing a displacer, check that the original mulatoc disc (if used) at the base or hose end is retained. Check the hoses for signs of leaks and the rubber diaphragms both ends for signs of perishing or leakage. A Company such as REPCO can refit a hose assembly to a displacer using new high-pressure fittings.
3.It is better to consistently carry some weight in your boot for a couple of reasons:
It is better to consistently carry some weight in your boot for a couple of reasons:*by displacement, this will increase your front ride height.
by displacement, this will increase your front ride height.*lessens the likelihood of rear displacement failure when loads (e.g. passengers) are occasionally carried in the back, by flexing the diaphragm consistently.
lessens the likelihood of rear displacement failure when loads (e.g. passengers) are occasionally carried in the back, by flexing the diaphragm consistently.Try 30 to 50 lbs weight (a good sized toolbox or a small bag of sand).
4.If you're mechanically minded, a portable suspension pump can be made from the little pump inside an old refrigerator unit. Discard the electric motor section. Fit a handle and suitable fittings to the pump section. This will evacuate as well as pressurise. A pressure gauge is easy to obtain.
If you're mechanically minded, a portable suspension pump can be made from the little pump inside an old refrigerator unit. Discard the electric motor section. Fit a handle and suitable fittings to the pump section. This will evacuate as well as pressurise. A pressure gauge is easy to obtain.5.The pivot arms or swing arms have either nylon bushes or tapered roller bearings, depending on the model. These would last a lifetime if the grease did not dry out. For the rear pivot, drill the hollow-arm housing, tap and fit a grease nipple. For the front pivot, this can be done in situ if you use a drill and tap to suit little Japanese grease nipples. Fill with grease (the rear will take quite a lot initially). Alternatively, Tasman or Kimberley rear pivot arms (reverted to taper bearings) can be substituted.
The pivot arms or swing arms have either nylon bushes or tapered roller bearings, depending on the model. These would last a lifetime if the grease did not dry out. For the rear pivot, drill the hollow-arm housing, tap and fit a grease nipple. For the front pivot, this can be done in situ if you use a drill and tap to suit little Japanese grease nipples. Fill with grease (the rear will take quite a lot initially). Alternatively, Tasman or Kimberley rear pivot arms (reverted to taper bearings) can be substituted.6.The ball joints are adjustable and can be completely dismantled, cleaned and repaired.
The ball joints are adjustable and can be completely dismantled, cleaned and repaired. The dust boots are critical in preventing wear. Originals are Nila, but others such as Landrover tie-rod (Part No 214649) boot will fit. As the top ball joint carries the most weight, drill the arm centrally from the top into the nylon cup, fit a grease nipple and grease regularly.
Be sure to tighten and bend the lock plate back and check the housing for looseness afterwards.
7.With the Mk l, check the hose on the rear displacer where it curves around toward the under-frame. For some reason the hose chafes occasionally. This can cause displacer failure. A compression joint will cure the problem.
With the Mk l, check the hose on the rear displacer where it curves around toward the under-frame. For some reason the hose chafes occasionally. This can cause displacer failure. A compression joint will cure the problem.Official Recipe for Hydrolastic Fluid:
The liquid is a solution of 49% alcohol, 49% distilled water, 1 % triethanolamine phosphate and 1% sodium mercaptobenzthiazole, which is of constant viscosity and has a freezing temperature of 31 degrees C. According to BMC, the particular reason this fluid is used instead of distilled water with an antifreeze is that this fluid IS an antifreeze solution of constant viscosity containing a rust inhibitor with an agent added to make the fluid distasteful. (This last was a legal requirement.)
A 50-50 mixture of methylated spirit and antifreeze (with a little radiator anti-corrosion added) can be used successfully with no adverse effects.
There were variations in the formula for Hydrolastic fluid between the UK and Australia. The firm of H.C. Sleigh (Golden Fleece) marketed a fluid to the following specification: Alcohol 50%, Water 24.45%, Bentmazol 0.05%, Ethylene Glycol 3%, (Bomar)? 0.50%, Union Carbide HB5100 22% (this is a viscosity improver).
STEERING AND WHEEL ALIGNMENTProperly maintained, the 1800 is delightful.
Neglected, it steers poorly and gobbles tyres up, especially the front tyres.
Check the tie-bar bushes located at the front of the underbody for wear.
Check the lower inner bushes for wear and replace if worn or sagged.
Check that the top arm and swivel hub assemblies on Mk ll have not been mismatched.
*Type 1: Top arm has a raised rib parallel with sides of arm. Use with swivel hub marked with raised letter 'M'.
Type 1: Top arm has a raised rib parallel with sides of arm. Use with swivel hub marked with raised letter 'M'.*Type 2: Top arm has a raised rib at right angles to the sides of the arm. Use with swivel hub marked with a letter 'P'.
Type 2: Top arm has a raised rib at right angles to the sides of the arm. Use with swivel hub marked with a letter 'P'.These changes were made to alter caster and, IF they have been unknowingly mis-matched, can lead to the steering pulling to one side.
Ride height must be within limits. 14" to 15.5" from front hub spindle to under-edge of mudguard.
Adjust rack and pinion as per manual and check for wear of bush at L/H end. Replace with nylon bush. DO NOT over-tighten the ball socket on ends of the rack. Replace rubber boots if leaking and ensure assembly is properly lubricated.
Check toe-in regularly and set carefully to suit tyre type.
Any wear in the swing arm bearings/bushes, ball joints and wheel bearings must be corrected before attempting a wheel alignment.
DRIVESHAFT, CV JOINTS and WHEEL BEARINGSCV joints are exceptionally durable provided the boots are not punctured.
Check the CV boots regularly (dirt and grit cause premature wear). CV's will usually come off the shaft with the sharp tap of a lead mallet. If difficult to refit, remove the circlip that holds CV in place, carefully close it up and refit to shaft.
Driveshafts utilising steel universal joints were fitted to automatic models. These driveshafts will fit a manual model and the steel universal lasts much longer, is cheaper to replace, and can be removed with the shaft for service.
NEVER use any grease other than Molybdenum Disulphide type for the lubrication of CV joints.
If experiencing wheel bearing problems, or wobble and tyre wear, check the big nut on the front hub for looseness or signs of movement. This is always caused by movement of the driveshaft in the hub spline. Dismantle, clean, inspect and replace worn parts; when refitting always use the correct grade Loctite (from REPCO or Bearing Services) on the driveshaft and hub splines.
Use Loctite primer to clean away all traces of grease.
The large nut on the front hub needs to be very tight and requires the use of an extension bar to tighten. Workshop manual specifies 150 ft. lbs.
If wheel wobbles or disc has run out (not due to tyre imbalance), position hub 6 or 8 splines from the previous position. Mark the relative position of shaft and hub if OK before dismantling.
If 'cracking or clicking' sounds come from CV joints when driving forward/reverse ON FULL LOCK, this indicates wear and will require replacement. Before buying new ones, try replacing the joint with new balls (bearings). The size is 21/32" and available from specialist bearing outlets.
The CV rubber boot fitted to the early model Subaru 4wd will fit the Austin 1800.
